A rare online session on the health benefits of natural fabrics was an insightful entry into the roots of our textiles, to commemorate the World Environment Day  

By Ranjani Govind

Textiles or fabrics are quintessential to human survival. The origin of the fabric has innumerable references to spinning and weaving mentioned in the Vedas. And according to folklores of Padmashali weaver community of Andhra Pradesh the first thread (stem of the Lotus) emerged from the navel of Lord Vishnu that was given to Sage Markandeya to weave the earliest fabric! “And that is how old the concept of weaving takes us to,” said Bharathy Harish, Coordinator, Madhurya Creations, as part of its World Environment Day (June 5) special, an online session on “Health benefits associated with Fabrics.”  

It is important to know more on what we wear as our clothing is constantly in skin-touch with us, said the introduction in the session. The subject gains spotlight as we fight a pandemic where hygiene and immunity are factors being discussed. There are nature-friendly fabrics that address our immunity too. The need of the hour is a conscious choice amidst the sea of synthetics we are engulfed into. 

Madhurya Creations in South Bangalore deals with the revival of 74 handcrafted Indian heritage arts, including sustainable fabrics and reviving niche weaves.  “This World Environment Day it is relevant to know how traditional fabrics have had a natural organic evolve over Centuries, and how the processes involved in their colour and make up were a handmade sustainable chain. They are conducive to a healthy make-up that resist infection from atmospheric disturbances and help in assimilating energies in our physical body,” explained Bharathy, who has researched on intricacies in weaves.

Connect with five elements of nature

Every product from our forefathers had a connection with the five elements – earth, water, fire, air and space. It was to balance the forces of energy (doshas) within the physical body containing Vata (energy of movement) pitta (energy of metabolism) and Kapha (forming the body structure) with the elements of nature that our forefather’s brought in a lifestyle (including food, clothing and shelter) which corrected the imbalances within.  

There are references from Ayurveda scriptures that classify fabric into four – Kshauma Vastram (made from plant fibres as linen, lotus and bamboo); Karpasa Vastram (fabric made from the fruit of the plant like cotton); Kausheya Vastram (fabrics as silk that originates from animals/worms); and Runkava Vastram made from animal body hair (as wool).  “Our fore-fathers had access to another technology of consciousness which had a lifestyle integrated with nature. Their clothing was so charmingly seasonal. Summer, rainy, winter and spring not just brought in temperature variations, but humans found evidences of their physical doshas alternating and reacting in a specific way. Hence they were prudent enough to wear suitable organic fabrics hand-weaved by them to tackle body requirements,” said Bharathy.

Hidden facts

From the coarse undyed fabrics, clothing evolved to becoming an expression of hierarchy over centuries, and soon enough had mechanization and synthetics as the norm. “But we will continue to place faith in the healing powers of organic fabric,” said Simran Singh, Head Designer of Madhurya whose passion for fabric, she said, was intrinsic to her thinking.  “We have to make it a habit to know how and where our fabrics are made. ‘Fast fashion pollution’ is pushing us to the edge to accept unnatural synthetic fibers manufactured using toxic chemicals and nanotechnologies. Why should we expose our biggest organ, skin, to toxins everyday?” she said cautioning people to be wary of the falsely labeled ‘natural’ on garments that have mixes of polyester synthetics that can even scare you with static electricity!

Simran’s power-point presentation underlined health benefits of organic fabrics as linen, cotton, silk, wool and natural threads derived from metal and minerals as in zari from gold, silver, copper and zinc. “Tradition has the new born wrapped with daddy’s dhoti as the first clothing and continued with night wear for kids in mul mul soft cotton,” she said.

Umpteen textile researches point to cotton being a body-temperature regulator as it absorbs sweat from the body and throws away the odour. It breathes and absorbs moisture, lowering your risk of yeast infection. Tencel fibre made from woodpulp is produced using earth-friendly solvents, it adds a wrinkle-free feature when blended with cotton; Bamboo fabric is naturally anti-bacterial and repels odour. The versatile Linen that regulates temperature had Egyptians using the textile as bedspreads to heal skin problems as it contains anti-bacterial and anti-septic properties. Silks, with amino acids and natural protein, tricks the nervous system into relaxing and with its naturally occurring chemical albumen, the skin’s metabolism speeds up. “Silk absorbs positive ions from air to help build immunity,” said Simran.       

It is incredible to see the list of natural colours that our ancestors derived from flora. Turmeric yellow, Madder red and pink, Triphala for khakhi, animal manure for natural white, Vettiver for brown, Neem for ivory and of course the distinct Indigo for an ancient shade of blue. Madhurya also deals with pineapple based fibre clothing, apart from bamboo, aloe vera, lotus, banana, corn, eucalyptus and even the soft flowing milk fibre made from milk protein called casein, taking tradition to its roots in its choice of natural fabrics! (www.madhurya.com– 7019138680)

Oldest fabric in versatile use –  LINEN

Linen, made from fibres of the flax plant, is said to be much stronger than cotton. While variety dress, material, bed covers, curtains and nightwear in linen are available in plenty, people should be made aware of the fibre’s health benefits to make them popular, says textile and fashion designer Lata Mahesh of Creative Fashions in Whitefield. “Linen is said to be the oldest fabric traced to 6000 BC. Even during my NIFT study we would see how the wonder fabric was used in upholstery, including car seats where direct sunlight hit the insides and the material was known for its filtration and anti-dust features,” she says.     

Linen, considered the cleanest fabric, is used in medical surgeries and wound treatments. “Its dermatological, physiological and psychological benefits are numerous, as it is resistant to radiation, offers a filter for protection against chemical contact and dust exposure, says Dermatologist Rashmi Ponnaiah who practices in Coorg.

And add to this, its property to protect against solar radiation. “Linen does not reflect UV, but absorbs it as the fibres contain natural pigment lignin which is a natural UV absorber and ensures sun protection. Japanese researches indicate that bed-bound patients who lay on linen bed sheets do not develop bedsores,” says Ayurvedic skin specialist Dr. Vanila Haripriya.

  Photos of organic fabrics, from Madhurya Creations